By Kira Salak  
"The Koogka and Opoka are at war with each other," the driver, Willy, wants me to know. He leans casually against the dented white van, the pmv, which is the only form of ground transportation in Papua New Guinea. "They leave each other's hands and feet on the side of the road."
It occurs to me that Willy waits, smirking, because he's expecting me to show surprise or disgust-to show something-and not want to make the trip to Mt. Hagen after all. I lean down to adjust a strap on my backpack. If there's violence, better I don't know about it. Better not to know anything.

 


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